Posts made in December, 2011

Take a Pea–Please–for New Years’ Day

Take a Pea–Please–for New Years’ Day

The ethnic cookbooks I edit include lots of special holiday foods, the same ones people complain about year in and year out: stodgy green bean casserole, gluey stuffing, boring charoset and greasy latkes. Hoppin’ John is the holiday tradition I could dispense with. Not the tradition, but the black-eyed peas. Their earthy flavor comes across as dirtlike to me. I’m Southern, though, so I feel bound to eat a few spoonfuls for good luck...

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Reviving Spiced Round, Finale

Reviving Spiced Round, Finale

This is the final entry in a successful project to reproduce a traditional spiced beef round from a 150-year-old recipe. After getting the recipe right, finding the beef, threading lard strips through it for hours, and locating a suitable container for five pounds of meat and 1 gallon of brine, the Spiced Round of Nashville Yesteryear was ready for its bath. The original 1880s recipe coated the beast with pepper and saltpeter, then dunked it in...

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Reviving Spiced Round, Part 3

Reviving Spiced Round, Part 3

The third installment in a project to prepare authentic spiced round of beef from a 150-year-old recipe Other people helped to update a Spiced Round recipe for a smaller piece of beef and advise on painstakingly threading slivers of spiced fat into the beef. To cure the beef, I had to go deep into the dark, scary parts of the basement. To dig out a family heirloom. That I hoped was still there. And not broken. Seventeen years ago my grandmother...

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Hello, I’m Nicki

I've written about food for a living since The Silver Palate was new. Discovering a new cookbook or technique is my idea of fun. And kitchen gear--I'm helpless to resist. Like kitchen projects, the posts here are occasional and open-ended, so please subscribe. You can read more about me here

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